
A Reliable STS Spray for the Cannabis Industry
A Reliable STS Spray for the Cannabis Industry
Please feel free to contact us directly for further information.
Mitchell Christophersen (780) 233-3234
(780) 477-7860
1224 Fort Road NW
Edmonton, AB. T5B-4H2
(587) 499-7555
4365 99 St. NW
Edmonton, AB. T6E 6KB
Canna Rev has come together to produce an easy to use, reliable STS spray with an excellent shelf life. My personal background is in agricultural crop management with the University of Alberta. Our chemistry resources are an consist of an awesome group of technicians at the Northern Alberta Institute of Technology. In addition I have the guidance in medical lab technician to insure our lab technique meets the highest standards.
It is our intention is to provide an STS feminizing spray that has a long shelf life and reliable results. It is our teams intentions to provide a product that far surpasses other attempts at producing an STS spray.
In this example individual branches were treated. the results are a pollen source from the treated. This is a great technique for producing seeds on the selected plant.
This is a plant that was completely treated. The plant is 5 weeks old and very close to maturity. A beautiful example of the effectiveness of our product.
Here is another example of individual branches being treated. The mature male branches can be used to directly pollinate the host plant or the can b carefully removed to pollinate a completely different phenotype. Be you a hobbyist or commercial grower, you are now officially a plant breeder as well!
Thank you Damien from Northern Frost Genetics for the pics!
Our solution is optimized for maximum yield
Whether you are a hobby grower or a production facility, there are many advantages to putting seed stock. Hang on to those unique genetics. STS feminizing spray is the answer!
Growers of all levels can now create their own strains of high quality bud by selecting the plants with their favorite characteristics and breading them to each other. Your very own strains!
Tired of paying outrageous prices for individual seed? Here is your opportunity to put away your favorite genetics for future crops for just pennies in actual cost.
Treat the selected plant the same day you reduce the light to induce budding.
Apply to saturation. Spray the area to be treated until nicely coated with solution. The picture shoes a few branches being treated. Shortly after you spray you can see the dried residue on the larger leaves. This is a good thing. This is the residue we want. It is this residue that ultimately influences the sexuality if the treated portions. The small 100ml bottle is more that enough to treat an entire plant of multiple single branches.
The total treatment regime is three times over two weeks. That's it! Three treatments in total! Unlike many other products ours you will only need to spray the plant once every 7 days starting the day you put it into bud cycle and ending a short two weeks later. You will likely see male characteristics starting to form by this time, depending on the phenotype.
Our product is a result of numerous University field trials. There is NO BRO SCIENCE guiding our hands. These field trials have provided sound scientific ground work that has opened the doors for aspiring cannabis breeders.
Our product is manufactured for the highest grades of material available. Highly processed water and analytical grade precursors. We will do our best to provide freshly prepared product to insure the silver does not precipitate out of solution. This is by far the biggest problem with other existing products. We produce small controlled batches to insure a maximum shelf life for retailers and growers alike. The purity of our precursors minimizes the potential for random impurities to bond with the silver and cause it to precipitate out of the solution. In addition please keep in mind that our product should be stored in a cool dark place in order to insure longevity.
Say something interesting about your business here.
STS Spray influences the plants production of a chemical called ethylene. By reducing the production of ethylene, the plant hormone Gibberellin is increased thus inducing male characteristics to the treated portions of the plant.
Absolutely not. Only the treated portions of the plant will be effected by the spray.
This is an article from the 420 Magazine that gives some great basic info on cannabis breeding concepts and terms!
First, let me say that I'm not an expert in breeding, but am knowledgeable enough to know that actually creating a good, stable, strain of medical cannabis can take years to accomplish and most of us will never be at that level. However, there's no reason we can't all "play" with some breeding as a way to create some new crosses, create our own seeds, preserve some of our favorite genetics, and have fun along the way.
This is NOT a comprehensive guide to breeding, just an overview and explanation of some of the terms.
We're all likely familiar with the two families of Cannabis used for medicinal purposes, including Cannabis Sativa and Cannabis Indica.
Sativas tend to grow taller with narrow, light green leaves and are native to Mexico, Columbia, Africa, Thailand & India. Indicas tend to grow shorter with fat, dark green leaves and they mature quicker and have more resinous flowers than Sativas. Indicas are native to the high northern mountain ranges of the Afghani Hindu Kush, Pakistani Kara Korams, Russian Pamirs and Indian Himalayas.
There are numerous strains of both Sativa and Indica.
A "Hybrid" is created by crossing two DIFFERENT "True-Breeding" strains. A true-breeding strain simply means that the genetics are stabilized so the seeds will carry traits "true" to the strain. A true-breeding strain is either is "Pure-Bred" or a "Stabilized Hybrid".
A Pure-Bred strain is a landrace strain that has only been able to reproduce with other similar strains, so the have almost identical genes.
A Stabilized Hybrid is created by crossing two different strains and then inbreeding the resulting cross for several generations until their traits become stable from generation to generation.
For breeding purposes, the two true-breeding strains to be used as parents are "P1". An “F1” is a seed or plant with two true-breeding parents and is effectively the first generation of the new strain. That being said, a man & woman can have ten children together and some will have brown hair, some will be blond; some will have blue eyes and some brown, some will be tall others short, etc. In other words, while each child can share some of the traits from either parent, it's very difficult to predict the outcome of that F1 generation since it has not been "stabilized".
The breeder will typically take the F1's that express the traits he's after and, by breeding two F1's, an "F2" is created. And, F2's can be bread with other F2's to create F3's, etc. The more generations you bread out, the more difficult it is to predict the resulting genetic traits, and because of this, breeders typically do not go past the F3 generation.
So, what are the odds you can get the qualities you're looking for when cross-breeding?
For F2's, with any specific trait, there's a 50% chance a specific trait will be common to F1, 25% chance it comes from the P1 male and 25% chance it comes from the P1 Female.
However, "Back-Crossing" can significantly improve those odds. When you back-cross F1 with P1, the F2's now have a 50% chance the trait will be from the F1 and 50% chance it will be from the P1 parent it was back-crossed with.
And, it gets even better (albeit, slightly more complicated!) with back-crossing because if you take that F2 back-cross and back-cross it again with P1, one of two things will happen to the F3 generation: either 100% will have the F2 trait OR 100% will have the P1 trait. These are known as an "F3 back-cross squared" and is a great method of ensuring little genetic drift between generations. However, just because you've managed to lock-in the trait you were looking for doesn't mean that other desirable traits weren't lost along the way.
To create an auto-flowering strain, the photo-period plant is crossed with Cannabis Ruderalis. Ruderalis is a low-THC species of Cannabis which is native to Central and Eastern Europe and Russia. Many people consider Ruderalis to be its own species due to its unique traits and phenotypes which distinguish it from Indicas and Sativas, however it is widely debated as to whether or not Ruderalis is actually a sub-species of Sativa.
Ruderalis is a short and stalky plant compared to Sativa and Indica that typically grows to 1 to 2 1/2 feet tall at harvest, with a rugged and shaggy growth pattern that produces wide, light green leaves. The buds from the ruderalis plant tend to be small but still relatively chunky, and are supported by sturdy, thick stems.
What really sets Ruderalis apart is its flowering cycle that is induced according to its maturity instead of being activated by the light schedule, like Indica and Sativa. Modern Ruderalis hybrids usually begin to flower between 21 and 30 days after the seeds have been planted, regardless of the light cycle.
However, this auto-flowering gene is "recessive" so a true photo-period plant crossed with an auto will always produce photos for offspring, BUT they will all have the auto gene. If you cross two of the Auto x Photo crosses, even though they are both photo, because they both have that recessive auto gene, 25% will be auto. If you then cross two of those auto-ing offspring, you'll get 100% auto.
So, getting the photo is easy, but it would take four generations to ensure the auto trait:
1) P1 Generation - One Auto & One Photo
2) F1 - All photo's with auto trait
3) F2 - 25% auto's
4) F3 - Crossing two F2 auto plants ensures auto's for seeds
This is great info for the aspiring cannabis breeder!
Patrick Bennett (Published on March 13, 2019)
Sometimes a grower has to move on from a certain strain. Maybe you’ve been growing the same strain for a long time and it no longer makes as much money as it used to, or maybe you just want to mix it up and start growing something else and don’t have the space for it.
It can be bittersweet saying goodbye to old genetics, but sometimes it’s unavoidable. You can take clones or keep a mother plant, but those aren’t ideal because they require a lot of care and maintenance, especially if they aren’t producing flower.
Fortunately, preserving genetics for long-term storage is easy and will save time, money, and space in the long run. Through seed and pollen collection, you can hang onto those genetics that you can’t fully get rid of and safely store them for future use.
Cannabis genetics are often sourced from external companies and organizations such as nurseries and seed banks. For the individual grower, saving seeds and pollen removes this reliance on external companies. This is especially true with pollen, as very few (if any) companies offer pollen to the public.
Saving space is a big reason to consider long-term storage of seeds and pollen. Mother plants lay dormant in a vegetative state and take up lots of space. Maintaining this extra space is time-consuming and takes extra resources like water, soil, nutrients, light, and other costly elements, all for something that doesn’t produce flower. Even keeping clones of an old strain around will take up space and resources.
A grower or breeder can also freeze the progress of a breeding project for months or years without losing any of the long, hard work. Endeavors such as phenotype hunting and maintaining desired mothers for breeding and cloning can all be saved for later through genetic preservation. This process is like backing up work on a hard drive.
Cannabis is for the most part dioecious, meaning that the male and female reproductive organs exist on two separate plants (although hermaphroditic plants do occur). It is also a wind-pollinated plant, so pollen must be transferred from a male stamen to a female pistil via the air in order for pollination to occur and seeds to form.
A female cannabis plant that has received pollen from a male will produce many seeds over the course of its maturation cycle. Upon senescence, when the female plant is fully mature and ready for harvest, its seeds will be ready for stratification and collection.
To collect seeds, it’s important to wait until they are fully mature and ready for harvest. Cannabis with seeds takes longer to mature than cannabis that only produces flower.
To tell if a seed is mature, take a look at its shape and color. Premature seeds will be small and light in color, taking on a beige hue. Fully mature cannabis seeds are more full in shape and size and have a much darker brown hue, sometimes accented by black tiger stripes.
Deseeding cannabis can be done by hand or machine. This process typically takes place after the plant has been dried for one to two weeks after harvest. This way, seeds will have reached their maximum maturity and plant material will be brittle enough to break apart with minimal effort.
When collecting seed by hand, use a fine screen to help catch trichomes that will break off during the process. This material is valuable and it would be a shame to waste.
To release the seeds, simply break up the dried buds over a screen and they will fall out. You can release the seeds en masse by rubbing the flower between your fingers and lightly breaking it apart.
Separate or sift seeds over the screen to remove any unwanted plant matter from the seeds themselves. Brush off the seeds—they should be completely free of any remaining plant material such as leaves, stem, or trichomes, as these elements put seeds at a higher risk for contamination and spoilage during long-term storage.
Male cannabis plants will produce pollen several weeks into their flowering cycle. Once their pollen sacs have opened up and released, the plant will begin to senesce and eventually die. It is important to collect pollen right as the sacs are beginning to open up, as this is the time pollen is most viable.
The best way to harvest pollen for storage is to remove an entire male flower cluster and place it in a sealed storage container for several days. After the cluster has dried, place it over a micron screen with parchment or wax paper underneath, and give it a light shake. This will allow the pollen to separate from any remaining plant matter and fall through the screen and onto the wax paper.
Moisture is a death sentence for pollen viability. Because of this, many breeders opt to mix flour into their pollen at a ratio of 4:1 (flour to pollen) when storing it long-term. This additional step will help keep pollen dry for a longer period of time.
Long-term storage requirements for seeds and pollen are similar. Both require cool, dark, dry, and oxygen-deprived environments for optimal preservation.
When storing seeds, place them in an air-sealed container that doesn’t have any light leaks. Film canisters, medicine bottles (non-translucent), and any sealable storage jar will work fine. The idea is to reduce the amount of oxygen present in the storage space as much as possible. You can also add uncooked rice to the storage container, which acts as an absorbent, to reduce moisture content.
For a cool environment, store seeds in either the refrigerator or freezer. Seeds need a consistent temperature without fluctuation to remain dormant long-term.
As mentioned above, the best way to reduce moisture in pollen is to mix it with flour. For long-term storage, it can be kept in a sealed vial or freezer bag. You can keep it in the refrigerator or freezer, though for optimal long-term storage, the colder the better.
You can expect cannabis seeds that have been sealed and properly stored to last for several years, and in many cases, longer. Seeds may be dormant, but they are still alive. Over enough time, they will lose their viability.
It’s important to continually practice germination testing to be sure your stored seeds haven’t lost all viability. To test this, periodically plant a seed and document its ability to germinate.
Fresh seeds should have a germination rate close to a 100%, whereas older seeds will see a significant drop off over time in their ability to germinate.
Out in the open, pollen may be viable for one or two weeks under normal conditions. However, when frozen and sealed, it can last up to a year and even longer. Pollen is more unstable than seed and even under the most optimal conditions, it isn’t expected to have as long of a shelf life.
For both seeds and pollen that have been frozen long-term, it’s important to avoid defrosting until they are ready to be used. Fluctuations in temperature and moisture content will quickly destroy their viability, so maintain a steady temperature for as long as possible. Warming and freezing multiple times isn’t good.
When it comes time to use frozen seeds, remove them from their container and let them sit out on a dry surface for several hours. Letting the seeds reach room temperature will help ensure a successful germination.
Pollen should also be placed at room temperature before using. Since pollen can be much messier to handle, it’s best to carefully transfer a sample from its long-term storage container to a fresh container before using it to pollinate a plant. This way, you don’t have to use all of the pollen and saved pollen can go back in the freezer with minimal exposure to warm air.
Taken from http://www.growweedeasy.com
Pollen is collected from male marijuana plants after they start flowering, or occasionally female plants when feminizing seeds.
When the pollen sacs from a marijuana plant start to crack and look like they're about to open up (or if you can see one has already opened) then your pollen is ready for harvest!
When pollen sacs are cracking and opening up, you're ready to harvest your pollen!
One way to harvest your pollen is to gently and carefully remove all the pollen sacs. Let them dry for a week, and then put them in a resealable bag. If you shake the bag the pollen should easily spill out. You may need to cut a few open yourself.
Moisture is your main enemy when storing pollen. It can help to double the mass of the pollen collected by adding regular cooking flour. This absorbs moisture during storage and as an added bonus, it will make application easier later when you pollinate your plant.
If you triple-bag the pollen-flour mixture and stick it in the freezer (with a good name tag so you know where the pollen came from), your pollen can be stored for a year or longer. Make sure to use "freezer" bags (plastic bags specifically made for the freezer are more effective than regular plastic bags).
It's time to pollinate when your plant has been in the flowering stage for about 2-3 weeks. Example of young cannabis buds that are ready to be pollinated
When your chosen mother is 2-3 weeks into the flowering stage, take a paintbrush and 'paint' your feminized pollen on the developing bud sites you want to pollinate. Bud sites are located wherever you can see leaves meet a stem. By 2-3 weeks in the flowering stage, all the bud sites should have tons of wispy white hairs. These are where you want to put your pollen (in the wild, these white hairs are what capture pollen out of the wind).
Only the buds that come in contact with pollen will grow seeds. You can choose to pollinate all of your buds or just a few on the plant.
It usually takes about 6 weeks for your marijuana seeds to fully develop. Some plants are literally dying right as the seeds become ready, so try to keep your plant alive until the seeds start dropping. The seeds can be used right away, or stored in a cool, dry place for a few years (stored in the back of your fridge is great). Don't forget to label them with the date!
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